Shalom! Sadly this is the last day of our venture.
Throughout this great adventure, I have periodically mentioned Eli, our tour guide. He is in the photo to the right with mom and I. He is a reformed (liberal) Jew, is a terrific man, and a wealth of information. He and I will be in touch talking about camp and life...he is the director of the largest Jewish camp in the United States, located in Michigan no less. As I help direct a Church camp in Indiana, as well as have an interest in Israel, Jewish life and culture, which he can provide, he and I have a lot to talk about. He is the best guide I have ever had the privilege to meet and I know that this will not be the last time I will speak to him. His knowledge of history and trivia made the trip very entertaining. This American/Israeli transplant is A++ in my book. Should you take a trip with LeSea Tours (highly recommended) ask for Eli's bus...you won't regret it!!! As for the information presented this week to you, it is just a taste of what I heard and transcribed into note form. This taste has me hungry for more...
Back to the blog...
We have a later morning, and are able to take our time. By 8:00 or so, we are on our way for our last day here...a day that will prove to be the most emotional of the trip. As we head for Yad Vashem holocaust museum, we get to travel through Eli's neighborhood in Jerusalem. He lives in the new part of the city. I don't know how anyone can afford to live in the city- no homes to be found, and apartments cost the price of New York City. When we were paying $4+ for gas, they were paying $8+. Yikes!!!
We finally arrive at our first location. This museum was dedicated "to the survivors, who through their lives bear the memory." (from a sign on site). This remembrance is for those who died, survived and now live so we may never forget what transpired for millions of Jews at the hands of Hitler and his regime. We are greeted by a lovely entrance gate with scripture. This gate, bearing scripture " I will put my breath into you and you shall live again, and I will set you upon your own soil..." (Ezekiel 37:14). In fact we are surrounded by the Bible...another spot going in has the following sobering reminder to all from 1 Joel, 2-3..."Has the like of this happened in your days or in the days of your fathers? Tell your children about it, and let your children tell theirs, and their children the next generation!"I have no photos of in this museum, as none were allowed, for obvious reason. There are also signs posted that babies and children under 10 are not allowed in the building itself. I believe not only due to the graphic nature of photos, but also that there is quiet to remember and ponder what is seen and heard without being disrupted. Once in, we are surrounded with artistic renderings and statues that stand in tribute to the children who died too early, and those who died, were persecuted, or even lived with the memories of those they tried to protect. The most poignant remembrance is that of, what I'll call a room of remembrance. This room is head to floor mirrors (going far above and below us) that reflect candles. These candles are reflected in such a way, it is as if you are walking through the 1 1/2 million children who died. While walking in this dark, circular room, names and hometowns of children and teens who perished at the hands of the German third Reich are read. Walking into the light outside, we then visit the Avenue of the Righteous Among the Nations. Over 20,000 trees are planted for those who saved the life of a Jew, or many Jews, without gain to be sought and under great danger to themselves and those around them. It is here that Oscar and Emilie Schindler have a tree planted for the countless Jews they saved. It is said that one Jew saved is like saving the world, so those who only helped one person receive the same number of trees as someone like Schindler.
We arrived to the museum itself, a maze of artifacts of a time gone mad, as well as sweeping video of photos and reels of life as Jews lived from 1938-1945. This was interesting, and heartbreaking at times. The greatest thing and honor I will ever remember happened here. I had the privilege to meet Helen Letterman. She is a Jew who was visiting from Massachusetts. What is so inspiring about Helen is not that she made it here at the young age of 85 with her beautiful family, but that she is one of the last survivors of this time period. Helen was there in the crowds when Hitler was voted in as Chancellor. She remembers it clearly to this day. She said that the German people were crazy to follow, and that all Germans knew what was happening with the death camps. Many were too afraid to speak up and went with the crowds. She was there when Jews were being gathered and sent to ghettos. She was there when she saw books being burned. She noticed my listening in with undivided attention and called me over. "You, young lady, I noticed you have been listening in to me talk (to her family members), come over here, I have something to tell you." I, and several others who realized that this was a once in a lifetime opportunity, gathered around she and her family. She went on to tell her brief, and painful story. It is important for her to teach, so we may never forget. She teaches children her story in schools, and is now teaching us. She, as a teenager, was sent to a Polish ghetto and at 16, was "asked" to clean the ghetto. Because of this job, she was not loaded onto box cars and trucks with the rest of her family. Because of this job, she was spared what was to become of her siblings, save one, and parents. Due to the clean up, there was never time to kill her. Her brother, it turns out, was a writer. He hid his manuscripts and told her where they were so they would not be destroyed by the Germans. After the mess, knowing what happened to her family, she and her only surviving family member, a sister, dug them up and preserved his writing. Today, she is a US citizen with three beautiful daughters and many family members. Her sister lives in Israel and has many children and great-grandchildren of her own. Thank God for sparing this woman's life, and giving us a spark so we all may learn what never to again do. Is she bitter? No. She is sad of what happened, but is thankful that God spared her so she may live. I thanked her for sharing her story so I too may learn and never forget what man can do, and has done. I tried to hurry through more exhibits, as we were out of time, only to find myself in a room that is stunning. This giant domed room is the Room of Names. I don't remember how many names were represented. Above our heads is a glass dome with hundreds and hundreds of photos of those involved in the Holocaust. Aaron and I had a laugh over some of the photos and it struck me that he, I or anyone of us reading this could be in those photos. Along the circular walls in books, were the testimonies of survivors, giving their stories. We couldn't pick the books up, but knowing that history has been preserved of those who lived and died means a lot to me. I am sure I can go online and look this information up when I get home. We slowly made our way through the museum (I only had time for 1/2 of it due to time constraints) and grabbed a bite to eat there. It is fitting that when you come out of the museum, you actually look out over Jerusalem. I am glad we came here, to see the past from a point I have never seen or learned in a classroom. Perhaps, my generation and those following can learn and not make the same mistakes that those before us made.
We then travelled through a nice area of town where the Valley of the Cross is located, to our next and last destination. This (Valley of the Cross) is the traditional place where the wood from Christ's cross was taken. Currently, there stands a 4th century Greek Orthodox church and monastery in this valley. We passed the actual residence of Benjamin Netanyahu, one of Israel's most beloved Prime Ministers from the mid-1990's. He lives in a bustling neighborhood, unassuming except for the outdoor surveillance/video cameras and green fence surrounding his property. This is a neighborhood that it is virtually impossible to find parking in, due to the size of the streets and no garages to park in. We continue to head on by different gates in the wall on the northern most part of Mr. Moriah and the Arab Quarter- the Damascus gate, which leads to Damascus, the Joffa gate, which ultimately leads to Joffa, the Lions gate, built by King Suleiman during the Turkish regime, also known at St. Stephens gate (said to be where Stephen was martyred by being stoned to death), Herod's gate (aka the Flower gate). Here you can see scaffolds up where the wall is being cleaned of vines, as well as siege holes, which were used in battles during the Turkish rule. After a quick stop of shopping, we head out to our last stop of the day...the Garden Tomb.
We arrive, to the loudspeaker system calling the Muslims to prayer. It is interesting, but distracting to me. It seems that anytime I am in a place glorifying and learning about Christ and God, these prayers are called out throughout the city, even if it is only 5 times a day. I wish I could plug my ears, but the prayers seem to drone on and on. Anyone have a bat? Anyway, I'll be good...they have a right to pray as well, so I'll have to ignore it. I guess this is what it is like to be a parent of a kid who won't shut up. Good lesson to take with me for when I am a mom I guess. lol!!!
Traditionally, the Garden and Calvary are thought to have occurred in this very spot. Our guide Phillip, from the organization that runs this place, explained that this site is traditionally thought to be the site of the tomb and gardens because it is the only site around that lines up with what we are told. The cliff of Calvary (Golgotha) fits in with the name because it 1, looks like a skull in old photos (which is what both Calvary and Golgotha mean). It doesn't look this way today because a bus depot is now built over where the mouth would be in the photo. 2, it goes to the Damascus gate, which passes by this hill, into a very busy, and noisy area. 3. this was an official site of Roman execution. Execution of old would not have happened on top of a hill, as Christians see in books and art, but instead happened at the base of the hill, at eye level of the main road. This is so those passing by could see and smell what was happening- a pleasant thought, I know. It was more likely Christ was crucified this very way, at the bottom of the hill, among the noise, filth, and those desperate in need of a savior. Although the cross was the most demeaning way to die, Christ made it a sign of redemption, and a declaration of Kingship of God. We then walk to one of the greatest sites on earth.
As we walk through this garden, it is a reverent and peaceful feeling that engulfs us, with few sounds except that of the birds and an occasional person. The cool of the air cools us off, as we walk through lush trees and flowers of all types, as well as sitting areas. Another reason why it was believed that this was the true spot of the tomb is that it lines up with what we are told. Findings of this place have found an old cistern and water system. This would have been used to water a garden. A garden is not as we know it to be. A garden here is agricultural. This garden was found to be an agricultural vineyard- a wine press was found to verify this discovery. This cistern is the 3rd largest in Jerusalem, and the property included a tomb, both owned by a wealthy man. It is believed that this was the land of Joseph of Arimathea. The most amazing thing that I found about this, is that Joseph's request of Pilot to have the body of Jesus to bury was strange. You see, when a person was crucified, their body was thrown into the town dump. In asking this of Pilot, he puts his life and reputation in danger.
As we wait for our turn to enter the tomb, we hear a group of Spanish speaking men at top singing hymns of praise and thanksgiving. You can feel God's presence here. My turn comes up. I know he is truly not here, but the thought of walking in a door where a 2 ton stone once stood and was moved, and then finding no body brings an added skip to my heartbeat and spring to my step. When I walked out and looked around from this empty tomb, I saw serious faces of those who have not yet stepped foot in this spot and the faces lit up in smiles of those who see the truth that he is not here, but has risen.
Our day is not yet finished. As we head up to a seating area above the tomb, we all sit together awaiting communion. As we sit, we can hear singing from different groups around the garden, in many different languages. We gather as we sing Amazing Grace and hear songs like El Shadai sung. As we share in communion with all 140 of us, 4 buses of the LeSea tour, I look up and see that two doves have landed in the trees above us. Mom also found a stem from an olive tree, which is a rare find here. God is truly with us, celebrating this moment.
Once the service is completed, Maer (our fabulous and funny driver, his name means, "One who illuminates) takes us back to pack, share one last story and meal together, and say goodbye. Some are leaving this evening, the rest, mom and I included, tomorrow. It is hard to say goodbye. I jokingly said that it feels like a rapture in a way...we are being left behind as everyone goes on to other tours or back home. It is hard to part ways with the new friends we have made...many who will become lifelong.
Albeit brief, and plum full of information, more than I could have ever dreamed of getting on this trip, I am sad that this is good bye to a country that I have grown to appreciate and love. Fond memories of new-found friends and a renewed relationship with my mom will be something that I carry with me from this journey. As for Israel and this timeless city of Jerusalem, this will not be the last time I will see her... Lord willing, you can count on that!
Until later my friend! L'hitraot (leh-hee-trah-oht; See you soon)...Kol Tuv. (kohl toov; Be well.) my beautiful Jerusalem.